The rinse cycle is where the Kenmore washer removes all the soap and detergent from the wash cycle. If your appliance malfunctions during the rinse cycle, you’ll end up with soap-stained laundry that’ll eventually become crusty as they dry. What’s the proper way to handle your Kenmore washer if it malfunctions during the rinse cycle?
A Kenmore washer that either won’t rinse, keeps rinsing, or is stuck on the rinse cycle likely has a skipping timer, malfunctioning cold water supply valve, or clogged drainpipe. The issue can also result from simple issues such as using too much detergent or overloading the washer.
Do you want to know how to fix your Kenmore washer’s rinse cycle without calling a repairman? This article will discuss what common issues to look out for, how DIY handymen can pinpoint the issue’s source, and what tools/parts you’ll need for the project.
Kenmore Washer Not Rinsing Properly / Kenmore Washer Keeps Rinsing
You don’t have to take apart your washer just to learn the reason why your washer’s rinse cycle is acting up. I’ve narrowed down the possibilities for you. That way, you don’t waste time and resources inspecting every single part of your Kenmore washer.
If your washer isn’t rinsing properly, make sure to check these parts first:
Cold Water Valve
The rinse cycle is the last part of a Kenmore washer’s cycle, and it’s also the only part where the appliance will need a steady supply of cold water. That means if your cold water supply is malfunctioning, the rinse cycle won’t commence. Most Kenmore washers can only use freshly supplied cold water for the rinse cycle.
To resolve the issue, you’ll have to dismantle and inspect the cold water valve—assuming your Kenmore washer has separate valves for hot and cold water. Check for any foreign obstructions lodged inside the pipeline. You’ll be able to save a lot of time if you get rid of the blockage right away without having to take apart the actual valve.
Next, check for corrosion and buildup. Those with newer machines might be able to clean off the rusted panels, while those with older models may have to consider investing in a new valve.
Pro Tip: There are plenty of water inlet valves for under $5, but if you want a durable, long-lasting solution, I suggest getting a high-grade replacement part. A good option would be the 5220FR2075L Cold Water Inlet Valve by TOMOON. It’s a top-notch, OEM-quality aftermarket replacement part that matches most modern and classic Kenmore washer models.
The lid switch is in charge of telling the system whether it’s safe to switch to a new cycle or not. If this switch malfunctions, there’s a high chance your washer won’t shift properly. A good indicator that your lid needs a checkup is if you have to slam the lid or washer door just for your washer to shift between different cycles.
Dismantle the back access panel on your washer to locate the lid switch. Press it against the machine to ensure the switch latches onto the hooks and locks properly. Try switching to the spin cycle again. If it doesn’t work, you might need to consider getting a full replacement.
Without a proper drainage system, your Kenmore washer won’t stop rinsing. It has to expel all laundry wastewater before shifting to the spin cycle.
A quick way to check your washer’s drainage system without dismantling the appliance is to do a visual checkup on the drain hose and standpipe. Generally, the drain hose should have a height of no less than 30 inches and stretch properly with no bent or curled parts.
Meanwhile, the standpipe has to have a height of six to eight inches. Although, local codes might vary on a case-by-case basis depending on where you live.
Kenmore Washer Stuck on Rinse
There are multiple reasons why your Kenmore washer might be stuck on rinse, but the most probable one is that it has a skipping timer. The timer is responsible for transitioning the system from wash to rinse cycle. If your washer’s timer is already defective, you’ll likely have the system getting stuck on various cycles (e.g., rinse cycle).
What causes washer times to skip cycles is carbon buildup. This soot and grime come from the heat daily electrical signal transfers produce. Once the grime coats the timer’s entire electrical board, it’ll no longer be able to connect with the camshaft, thus compromising the execution of cycle transitions.
A quick fix for this would be to clear up the carbon buildup. Open the washer’s back panel, locate the times, then examine the electrical board. If it really is the reason why you’re washer’s skipping cycles, you should see thick layers of grease and grime covering the timer’s wiring—this buildup would look like the soot on a chimney.
However, cleaning the carbon buildup is merely a temporary solution. If you want to get your unit up and running in tiptop condition once again, you’ll have to get a part replacement. A good option I would strongly suggest is the WP3951702 Washer Timer by Replacement Parts USA. It’s a high-quality, affordable, and durable aftermarket replacement part on par with the OEM products Kenmore produces themselves.
What follows the rinse cycle is the spin cycle. This stage is where the washer will remove excess moisture from the clean, soap-free, and rinsed laundry.
There are primarily two conditions for the washer to transition smoothly into this stage. First, the timer has to assist the washer with the cycle shift. Second, the machine needs to expel the laundry wastewater through the drain pipes and valves. If there are blockages lodged inside the valves, the wastewater won’t exit the tub, and the washer cannot properly dry the freshly rinsed laundry.
With that in mind, check the screens for any visible obstacles or foreign objects blocking the valves—these include undergarments, socks, and thin tank tops, among others. If there are none, proceed to dismantle the valve. Clean out all corrosion, gunk, and grime buildup to clear the valves and create an open pathway.
Multiple electrical boards come into play when a Kenmore washer transitions from the rinse cycle to the spin cycle. Even a single defect can compromise the entire process.
Some of the most important parts to inspect for electrical malfunctions include the water inlet valve, timer, and lid switch. These parts have varying functions. However, one similarity they share is that you can gauge their electrical board’s efficacy with a multimeter.
Use the gadget to read the part’s continuity. If a part reads “zero continuity,” that means it’s no longer able to generate and send the necessary electrical signals.
Kenmore Washer Won’t Rinse
Having your washer stuck on the wash cycle can be quite stressful—especially if you’re not an experienced handyman. Plus, dealing with a pile of wet, soapy, and lathered laundry is just as big of a hassle as getting the appliance to run properly again.
To ensure both your laundry and washer are safe, you need to have a systematic inspection process. Don’t just stick your hands down the drain valve.
First, perform a master reset. Unplug the washer and let it rest for one to two minutes. Then, open and close the door six times within 12 seconds—this action should trigger a master reset in most modern Kenmore washer models. Resetting your appliance does not guarantee anything, but it won’t hurt to try as well.
Second, manually force the timer switch to go into a rinse cycle. This trick works best on older Kenmore washer models equipped with classic knobs rather than modern user and control boards.
Finally, if none of the tricks above work, you, unfortunately, have no choice but to unload your laundry and perform the full inspection. Drain the laundry wastewater manually, unplug the washer from the power source, then do a checkup routine. As for the laundry, you can rinse them by hand since they’re already washed and lathered.